Valparaiso is Chile's most unusual city. It’s the sort of place that inspires dreamers, and plenty of writers, poets and artists have been moved to capture it, including Chile’s most famous poet Pablo Neruda, who had a house here. Today, it still inspires, with many visitors falling in love with the edgy, bohemian atmosphere and colourful coolness. The city is divided by steep hills (cerros), connected by old funicular lifts, each hill piled high with crumbling mansions, brightly hued dwellings and boutique shops. Once you’ve travelled up into the cerros from ocean level, it’s easy to wander the cobbled lanes and admire the plentiful street art for hours!